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The Florentine neighbourhood of Sant’Ambrogio may only be 10 minutes’ walk east from the landmark Duomo and Palazzo Vecchio, but this part of the Tuscan capital has a distinctive character far removed from the tourist pizza traps and overpriced gelato. It’s a tight-knit community that is still genuinely Florentine and a food nirvana.
What brings all of Sant’Ambrogio together is undoubtedly its mercato: Florence’s first covered food hall, opened in 1873, a few minutes’ walk east of Piazza dei Ciompi, is surrounded by outdoor stalls selling porcini mushrooms, olives, porchetta and pecorino cheese straight from the Tuscan countryside. Clothes stands are piled high with bargain outlet designs and vintage brands, and there’s also a famous flea market.
A must try it’s the Pier Paolo Pollini emblematic panino lampredotto – tripe sandwich – who has been serving for 25 years from his food truck outside Sant’Ambrogio’s church.
Sant'Ambrogio is one of the oldest churches in Florence. This Benedictine female monastery was mentioned as early as 988 and its church was dedicated to Sant'Ambrogio, bishop of Milan who stayed in Florence between 393 and 394, consecrating San Lorenzo, the first Florentine cathedral, at the same time and then two minutes’ walk away discover an immense, exotic Moorish synagogue built by the Jewish community 140 years ago.
When hunger strikes, head for one of Florence’s most famous foodie haunts. Known colloquially as the Cibreo “village”, the beginning of via de’ Macci is home to renowned Florentine chef Fabio Picchi’s food “empire”, made up of a cafe’ (Caffe’ Cibreo), a fine dining restaurant (Ristorante Cibreo), an Asian-fusion-and-Florentine spot (Cibleo) and an entirely unique venue, the Teatro del Sale, which serves set-price buffet-style meals ahead of hosting nearly-nightly events, shows and performances, many of which get the audience directly involved.
The cooks themselves put on quite a show, calling out from the kitchen with aplomb each time a new dish is dragged out. Who says dinner can’t be its own form of drama? (Note: dining at the Teatro del Sale requires a membership card, but it can be purchased for a relatively low price upon entry).
Although arguably just beyond the borders of the Sant’Ambrogio neighborhood, the Le Murate complex is another must-stop in the area. Formerly a prison and now a vibrant cultural center, you’ll find a large open-air square, a contemporary art exhibition space, readings, lectures and live music year-round and a pizzeria—plus, it’s conveniently home to one of the city’s main ticket centers, Box Office, where you can review the range of theatre, concerts and sporting events happening around town and purchase tickets for myriad happenings on-site.

Casa Lilia is located in a strategic spot and equipped with a very convenient two-story garage at Sant’Ambrogio Parking.