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Garbatella is a poetic neighbourhood.
Garbatella is a maze of courtyards, each one with its own gardens, squares, stairs, balconies and fountains.
Garbatella is the decadent charm of its small houses built with a refinement and a preciousness that other Roman suburbs don’t have, according to a tradition of eclectic, noble architecture -whose references range from Borromini to the Futurist movement and Art Deco.
It only takes a few minutes of walking through Garbatella to spot how different this quiet area is from the Roman districts slightly closer to the centro storico. Found three metro stops over from the Colosseum.
The unique neighborhood was established in 1920 as part of a planned community to house the workers who flocked to the capital for jobs in the nearby industrial Ostiense area.
What makes Garbatella so intriguing is its distinctive design. This Rome neighborhood was modeled on the garden city suburbs that were popular in England in the early 20thcentury, creating a particularly unique style of architecture and sense of community. But from its humble origins, Garbatella has grown into one of Rome’s culture centers, with art, architecture, gastronomy, and performances waiting to be uncovered.
To truly experience Garbatella, you need to start with the lotto. Rather than a gamble, “lotto” in this case refers to the unique style of housing in the neighborhood. Keep an eye out near the entrances to the small clusters of apartments and you will note numbered lotti – property lots.
The flats in Garbatella were first constructed as public housing and each small complex was included in a numbered system as part of the organization and administration. The homes have all long since been privatized but the lotti remain. Each lotto has different architectural elements, but the defining feature is that every set of flats is built around a central courtyard.
Step through the open gates along the narrow lanes in the heart of the neighborhood and be transported back to another era. The internal yards were envisioned by the urban planners of 100 years ago as green spaces that could be used as vegetable gardens and gathering places. Today they are still filled with flowers and lines of laundry drying in the sun.
There are 62 lotti in total and exploring the different gardens and courtyards over a meandering morning stroll is the best way to acquaint yourself with the various corners of the neighborhood while gaining a taste of the individuality found in this singularly Roman quartiere.
Still undergoing an urban revival, the old factories are being reclaimed for new enterprises. The best example is the stunning museum of Centrale Montemartini. Inside the decommissioned electrical plant, marble statues are displayed next to gears, levers, and engines which once powered the city. The juxtaposition of old and new, art and industry, is captivating.
Drinks
With wood-backed chairs and a handwritten chalkboard menu of wines by the glass, Enoteca La Mescita looks the part of a traditional Italian wine bar. A closer look through the labels lining the shelves will reveal that the corner enoteca has an impressive selection of whites, reds, and rosatos from across the country, but puts every emphasis possible on natural wines. Dive into a bottle with a bit of organically-raised salami on the side, and grab one of the few high stools outside for an open-air aperitivo.

METRO B Garbatella:
-one stop from Pyramid ( 5 minutes) - Ostiense and Testaccio area
-two stops from Circo Massimo ( 8 minutes)
-three stops from Colosseum (10 minutes)
- four stops from Cavour - Rione Monti ( 12 minutes)
- five stops from Termini Station ( 15 minutes)