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La Condesa has been the coolest neighborhood for decades - next to Roma -, always lively and quiet. Tree-lined avenues line the streets, among which mansions and villas with several centuries of life appear, and whose facades alternate colonial style with refined modernist and art deco aesthetics.
People walk their bikes and go jogging, while others walk their dogs taking advantage of the green spaces and areas set up for their pets. Others choose to go shopping in the boutique clothing stores or art galleries that proliferate on its streets, and almost everyone comes to eat tacos, ice cream or avant-garde cuisine.
Many people raise their eyebrows when asked about the name Hipódromo Condesa, mostly because except from a bird's eye view it is difficult to see that there was a space for horse racing here.
Stands of the Condesa Hippodrome during its construction
In colonial times, part of what is now Mexico City was made up of extensive haciendas. One of them covered the immense territory that runs from the town of Tacubaya and the town of Romita, and was known as Santa María del Arenal. In 1704, the land where the Countess is today was acquired by Doña María Magdalena Dávalos de Bracamonte y Orozco, Third Countess of Miravalle. With the disintegration of the old hacienda, many lands were sold for the creation of a neighborhood for the incipient Mexican bourgeoisie, especially for the Jewish community. In fact, there are many traces today of those years with synagogues and kosher stores.
At the beginning of the 20th century (1910), the Jockey Club of Mexico promoted the construction of a new racecourse - named "Condesa" - to enjoy horses and exhibit the lineage of upper-class families. In this way, the wealthy class avoided the road to the city's first racecourse, Peralvillo, which operated from 1882 until it was dismantled in 1913.
A part of La Condesa is called Hipódromo because the space for the horse races in Mexico City was located here. In fact, walking through some of its streets like Amsterdam, we can glimpse the ancient ellipse physiognomy through which horses ran at full speed. Today the only animals that jog are humans playing sports.
When it lost its function as a racecourse in 1920, the design of its streets - by architect José Luis Cuevas - respected its layout, and the urbanization adapted to the oval shape of the old stadium, breaking the classic grid physiognomy of most of it. of the Mexican capital. That is why if we walk along Amsterdam Avenue, we will realize that we are going around in a circle as if we were on the horse racing track.
During the following decades, La Condesa was adorned with new residences with different aesthetic styles, such as functionalist, Californian colonial and neocolonial architecture from the 1930s, 1940s and 1950s, such as the avant-garde - for the time - Edificio Basurto, the work of Francisco J. Serrano. , built between 1940 and 1945, the current Russian embassy, ​​a work of eclectic style built in 1912 by Mauricio de María y Campos - and which was the residence of the last countess -; the Condesa Buildings, built in British style around 1908 for the employees of the “El Águila” Oil Company, and others by Luis Barragán. Wealthy families and a good handful of celebrities lived there, and today it is one of the friendliest areas to walk and enjoy the street.

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